Lightweight door tops

Series III specific forum

Lightweight door tops

Postby LR88LW » Sun Apr 14, 2019 9:27 pm

Hello there,
I do have a problem which I do not know how to solve it:
The door tops of my Series 3 LWT leave space at the front edge next to the windscreen frame when the doors are closed. That makes it very drafty inside.
What can I do, that the doors close air- and waterproof completely?
Regards
Ulrich
LR88LW
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Re: Lightweight door tops

Postby FrogPart » Sun Apr 14, 2019 11:16 pm

It seems your screen frame may be standard (civvy) that does not have retainers pop-riveted on ? the ends.

It may be best if you can show a photograph of what you have to confirm the components you don't have.

I am uncertain the way you describe the gap. You may be just missing the seal retainers and seals at the end of the vent panel. You just push-fit the rubber in the retainers. It seems you don't have seals up the sides of the galve screen frame BUT you may have the retainers ?

I think these C / V short retainers are NLA but you just convert a long strip as used on the end of the galve screen frame, V notch with a junior hacksaw & bend to the crank angle of the vent panel end.

The following is what I typed a few months ago for somebody on another forum (Ex-MLRA)

Up the windscreen (there is a differ to a civvy screen) - here you have the same elecro-plate channel sections that retain the rubber (that is to seal front edge (sloped) OF DOOR TOPS, the channel = SEAL RETAINER 346393 (you should have this probably - secured to the galve screen frame end)s. 346393 stuff can be cut to length and V notched with a junior hacksaw to convert to 346391 (the 'C' pieces).

The rubber you will need is the hollow round 346395 , the same section is used at the end of the vent-panel.

To help prevent loss of the rubbers - Solihull applied some trim-glue inside the retainers on assembly.

-----------------

If your retainers and seals are present and have a gap , then that is because if copy-part door tops the mounting studs have not been bent to correct angle. Normally even genuine door tops on a Lightweight have to have the studs bent just slightly to get a tight slam on the body tenting. A quick explanation for reason is that the hood stick sockets on the tub upper-body sides are between 1/2" to 5/8" closer together port/starboard than on a civvy tub - it is all to do with max. absolute of original vehicle width of 5'-0" :)
And I thought it was a thermostat !
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Re: Lightweight door tops

Postby LR88LW » Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:35 pm

@frogpart: Thank you for your reply.
See pictures attached, please!

Regards
LR88LW
Attachments
LR.LWT.door tops.RH.2.JPG
LR.LWT.door tops.RH.1.JPG
LR.LWT.door tops.LH.2.JPG
LR.LWT.door tops.LH.1.JPG
LR88LW
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Re: Lightweight door tops

Postby FrogPart » Tue Apr 16, 2019 12:41 pm

I see , the gap is at the top , from the description I thought it was at bottom (vent panel position) , the vent panel ends need a retainer bracket that turns 90 degree , this is pop-riveted on and then you affix the actual retainers for the hollow rubber seal.

Looking at the pics - I would say just a minor task. I once spent a few hours on the Lightweight assembly line at Solihull amongst all the ghetto blasters,tried to eyeball how they did it but they knew I was paying attention so they went a bit gentle and had trouble doing it. I would say your door-tops possibly non-genuine, just a bit wide on gap than I would anticipate with genuine.. Actually most non-gen. are now very good - I have a job to tell until I look at the tell-tails :) Some door tops the two studs are cranked , others left straight. Genuine and non-gen. that are cranked often need a little tweak & this can be done cold. Yours - I would do cold . As a rule I get the door hung correct with top galve strip in line with tub upper body-side galve. capping. Make whatever adjustments are needed (slotted holes) for door lock latch bracket. With new genuine door seals - the doors will tend to lay flat but a little proud of the body-line. I would not use cheapo door seals. You may be able to get it correct by taking a firm grip on the door and actually bending the door hinges a little. It is a all-round trade off , door shuts gaps & door projection. Sometimes you need a assistant and cold bent the studs by applying firm pressure on the door top (slack off the two hex. nuts first). Always fit a new rubber seal between door top and door, they harden up and then allow water past.

When the gap is too wide or the copy door-tops don't have cranked studs , you have to warm the stud next to panel - protect panel with plumbers 'asbestos' mats and get the heat in quick to cherry red. Oxy/ Acet. with correct nozzle is better than using a Sievert . Quick bend to angle and then a wet cloth over :lol:
And I thought it was a thermostat !
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Re: Lightweight door tops

Postby LR88LW » Tue Apr 16, 2019 9:51 pm

@frogpart: Thank you again for your help.
Will check the studs tomorrow, then decide what to do!
Are the studs of the Lightweight door tops cranked and the studs of the door tops for the civvy straight??
Regards
LR88LW
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Re: Lightweight door tops

Postby FrogPart » Tue Apr 16, 2019 10:56 pm

LR88LW wrote:@frogpart: Thank you again for your help.
Will check the studs tomorrow, then decide what to do!
Are the studs of the Lightweight door tops cranked and the studs of the door tops for the civvy straight??
Regards
LR88LW


They are identical & the same LR Part No. So studs on both cranked a few degrees.

S2A and S3 door tops are dimension same and identical in all respects other than the S2A does not have the aperture for the plastic slider to secure the glass shut , S2A was a different method - more classic engineered :lol: The purist would use the correct S2A on his Rover 1 (they are available as copy part but I doubt if genuine are available). Most just make a alloy cover plate & screw or pop-rivet it on , or just use a S3 plastic slider - as on my 1961 S2A 109" :)

btw. A good way to tell if a door-top is genuine genuine , look at the inside where the alloy is crimped over the steel frame at top corners, find the mitre corners of the alloy and you should find holes punched in approx. dia. 3/64" Brexit & 3mm EU. This must be something to do with stage press-tooling , copy parts will be shorter production runs and use a different method.
And I thought it was a thermostat !
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