Correct settings when running on lead free

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Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby Andrew » Fri Jun 29, 2018 9:36 pm

Well,

Thanks to a visit to the MAlvern Landrover show I now have an original series 3 workshop manual. I already has the lightweight user manual and noticing a conflict in the spark plug gap settings I started to wonder about what settings I need for those and the timing as these must describe how things were before lead free fuel.

I've just changed the plug leads, the plugs, the distributor and rotor as well as the hose between the air filter and the carburettor plus the fuel lifter and still can't get the thing to maintain tick-over-it's better than it was but it's not right..... Weber 34 carb by the way- bloody inconvenient as the idle and mixture screw are on the inboard face so you need an extra wrist to adjust them!

So, if I clean the jets, fit new points and go for the timing next, what settings will be right for lead free? Also for the spark plug gap.

Onwards and upwards!

Andrew.
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Re: Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby FrogPart » Fri Jun 29, 2018 10:14 pm

ou don't state if 12 volt or FFR plugs , little difference - proper FFR dizzy - you don't have vacuum advance.

Don't mess with the plugs , if clean running engine , just renew at service intervals. I find the cheapest NGK plugs best.

If FFR plugs -don't try anything with platinum type, electrodes snap off. Best using original basic spec. I don't think LR engines were cleared for platinum screened type plugs anyway - I forget , although I do have some. from memory - the Land Rover boxed basic screened plugs are ade in Italy & badged Lodge - so I suppose Magnetti Marelli manuf. Fiat Group :)

Stick something suitable down No.1 plug hole as a double check for on TDC on rock calibration check of indication, pointer design varies. Probably you have a pulley notch , a pointer with BIG V - indicating TDC and two smaller v. Just set static for TDC , I then white paint mark TDC and check with a strobe , revv up and make certain it is advancing correct. Leave it at that & go for a 'pinking' test run warmed up engine on a hill , if no 'rattle' - near enough :lol:
And I thought it was a thermostat !
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Re: Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby Andrew » Sat Jun 30, 2018 9:08 am

12 v with me - I will have a borrow of a timing gun once I have cleaned the jets.

Thanks as always for the advice,

Andrew
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Re: Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby FrogPart » Sat Jun 30, 2018 6:42 pm

The gun I use is just a cheap Gunsons 'Tachostrobe' (a tacky green plastic ,space-explorer pistol shaped ), the tacho. I don't bother with - just the power is 240 volt , even then best done at dusk. 12 volt strobes I have tried - useless but that is light years ago :lol:
And I thought it was a thermostat !
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Re: Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby Andrew » Sun Jul 01, 2018 6:43 pm

Popped the carb off-the in built filter was pretty fouled up so we just cleaned that and the mixture jet- didn't disassemble the carb itself.On refitting although it's better it still stalls -however far in/out the mixture screw is it doesn't make much difference . I've ordered the in line filter you suggested and will have a timing check next then strip the carburettor all the way back. Great fun- it's why I bought it!
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Re: Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby FrogPart » Sun Jul 01, 2018 6:55 pm

Andrew wrote:Popped the carb off-the in built filter was pretty fouled up so we just cleaned that and the mixture jet- didn't disassemble the carb itself.On refitting although it's better it still stalls -however far in/out the mixture screw is it doesn't make much difference . I've ordered the in line filter you suggested and will have a timing check next then strip the carburettor all the way back. Great fun- it's why I bought it!


If the carb has a built in filter (sintered bronze) type with brass bolt near petrol entry - then it must be a Weber 24ICH , they can be OK and quality OK, however need cleaner fuel than a proper :) carb. the 36IV - hence Weber also give a disposable cartridge , in-line filter in the kit. A better idea is a Malpassi "Filter King" , there are far cheaper Italian copies but less the pressure adj. regulator.
And I thought it was a thermostat !
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Re: Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby Andrew » Sun Jul 08, 2018 1:39 pm

Success- with some personal discomfort. I stripped the thing down (It's a weber 34 according to the markings) and gave every hole a good blast with carb cleaner then the airline- oh my- you squirt the stuff down one hole and it comes straight back at you from another, adjusted the float level then set it up a suggested on the Weber site and to my amazement, its all running. I have a cheap in line filter now but I will take a note of the Malpassi. Haven't touched teh timing.

Andrew.
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Re: Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby blueleggy » Tue Jul 10, 2018 2:55 pm

Well done, and thanks for the update - that's how we can all learn :)

Graham

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Re: Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby PeterC » Tue Nov 20, 2018 4:44 pm

Hi Frogpart and other experts. Does setting the timing at DTC also go for unleaded heads with an electronic ignition conversion?
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Re: Correct settings when running on lead free

Postby FrogPart » Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:57 pm

A head with hard exhaust seats, even with later valve rotation makes no difference - assuming CR is same as a standard 8:1 head.

Years ago - when Halfords walls were covered with electronic Ign. conversion kits of differing types - I tried a couple on different vehicles like LR S3 & VW Beetles - just used the normal book settings.

I did in the early 1980's buy a very expensive genuine Lucas EI kit and fitted it to a 45D dizzy (at least I had not strayed to non-OEM) and nothing vizible for rivet counters to locate. These were very RARE because it £ cost as much as a Lumenition Optronic kit (arguably the best system I suppose). Both these types - I just used the normal book settings.

Abt. 12 years ago , I purchased a Chinese copy of the 45D dizzy in EI form, these were being sold for abt. £80 in the LR mags (heavily advertised). I just used the standard normal book settings. IIRC this was abt. the time that 2 star leaded was terminated.

I know there are some very cheap kits on the market & sus. the internals are same sourced ??

There is a full EI dizzy (from Holland) I understand NOT made in PRC , seems a good. spec. but not had one.

-------

There is one point I would mention - you have the Weber 34 ICH carb. kit , this has a 34mm dia. throat against the 36mm throat of a 36IV - There were claims that this was a strangle at the choke throat :) The same Weber 34 ICH "Economy" kit was also jetted for other vehicles , as well as enabling 1100cc Escort with dreaded VV carb. to actually motor again.

There was a article many years ago in LRO mag (somewhere I have it) by a USA regular staff sort of contributer (I think his name was Jim Allen). Her set up a back/back test on a flow bench rig and proved that the 34mm could in fact shift at least the same volume of air. However :) I would not part with my 're-boxed' Weber kits , BUT I do find that a 'good' 36IV performs best. I once did a lengthy article in ExMLRA Forum on the 36IV , several photographs of different versions according to build time-line/ different manufacturers. Inc. the Solex 36IV :) (I have a theory on that). All I can say is a 36IV(R) out of a genuine LR box was a very good 36IV - but I don't know who made it, I don't think it was by Burlen who took over manufacture when Zenith UK folded abt. 1984 +

The 5% ethanol stuff we have as spirit - I just do as always in the past. Set it on the drive to the book, go for a drive to get full up to temp. Charge at the same steep hill , expecting to have changed down to 3rd (high) just before I reach a field gate and if it rattles I need to be retarded :lol:
And I thought it was a thermostat !
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